Hop Skip Jump Peru

Chilling at Chan Chan, Trujillo

2010-01-01T23:20:00.000-08:00

Peru can boast several intriguing pre-Columbian civilizations and the Chimu were just one of the powerful groups to dominate the north Peruvian coast. One of the the landmarks that was constructed by the mighty Chimu people was the citadel of Chan Chan.

Chan Chan was originally constructed around 850 A.D and served as the imperial capital for the Chimu people. It remained so until the Inca conquered the Chimu around 1470 A.D. The Chimu were expansionists just like the Inca and their empire stretched over much of the coastal region of northern Peru at the height of their success. The Inca tried to take over Chan Chan in 1462, but had great difficulty defeating them eventually triumphing by inhibiting the irrigation channels that supplied water to the citadel.

Chan Chan is the largest adobe city in the world covering roughly 7.7 square miles and has been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. It is located about 5km outside of Trujillo on the road out to the beach side resort of Huanchaco. In fact the road to Huanchaco drives right through the middle of the remains.

Although Chan Chan in its entirety is massive, the only part of the complex that has been fully restored is the Tschudi Complex. This is probably one of the later additions to Chan Chan and is filled with fascinating bas reliefs and friezes on the complex walls. These engravings offer fascinating insight into the Chimu people and their beliefs.

The layout of the Tschudi complex demonstrates the highly organized structure of Chimu culture as well as some innovative technological advances they had developed such as their own natural air conditioning and food storage systems and wells.

A taxi out to the site from the center of Trujillo will cost you around 10 soles. It is best if you get the taxi to wait for you since it is difficult to get transport back. This will cost you more obviously, but also saves a bit of hassle. Alternatively you can get a bus that goes to Huanchaco to take you, they depart from Avenida Espana in the city center.

The Tschudi complex is open from 9am to 4:30pm every day except Christmas Day and New Years Day. The price of entry is $3.70 US for an adult ticket. You may read older advice that says the road between the complex and highway is dangerous, this is no longer the case although the beach around the complex is not a particularly safe place to stroll on your own.

Word of the Day 1/1/10

2009-12-31T23:05:00.000-08:00

The word of the day that will probably apply to many poor souls today is

resaca - hangover as in "I have a hangover" "tengo una resaca"

Safety Tips While Hotfooting it Around Peru

2009-12-31T22:25:00.000-08:00

Peru is one the most exciting travel destinations in South America blending incredible historical and archeological sites with out of this world cuisine, verdant jungle, exotic flora and fauna, deserted beaches and an energetic cultural element.

Some people have an image of Peru as being a dangerous place and may avoid traveling there or to other South American destinations for fear of falling victim to crime. Peru has become much safer in recent years and is now a leading Latin American travel destination. Peruvians are usually very friendly and helpful towards visitors and you will often be asked lots of questions about your home country because they are genuinely interested in you. However, whenever you travel overseas there is always the chance that things can go wrong and put you in danger so here are some tips on staying safe and secure while traveling through Peru.

Peru is filled with little yellow death traps known as Ticos. They are little cars that are used as taxis quite often. If you value your life never step inside one. They collapse like a house of cards upon impact with another vehicle or object. Always stick to larger taxis when traveling about.

When you are traveling with your luggage make sure you get into a registered taxi booked through your hotel. In Peru just about anybody with a car can decide to become a tax driver. Most of the taxi drivers are just hard working average Joes, but there is the odd one who is out on the prowl to menace people and rob them.

Keep your jewelry and flashy objects to a minimum. It is not a super smart move to make yourself stick out as a gringo with money as you are likely to make yourself a target for possible robberies or even kidnapping.

Lima is surrounded by a number of shanty towns and slums, which should be avoided. Apart from a morbid curiosity about how the very poor live their lives, there is no reason to visit them.

If you are going to withdraw money from a bank you should do it during the day. It is also best to choose ATMs inside a bank where there are security guards. As soon as you have taken your money place it inside a money belt and do not let others see how much cash you have.

Avoid walking in unknown or dark places at night. And even if you don't know where you are going always try to look confident as this makes you look less vulnerable to possible thieves and thugs.

On buses traveling between cities make sure that you keep your valuables on your person. Definitely not under the bus and not even on the floor or above you. Keep important items right with you all the time. Occasionally buses are held up while en route. This normally happens on buses that stop in different and remote spots to pick up passengers. A good way to minimize the chance of highway hijacking is to travel on direct buses.

Never ever have anything to do with drugs in Peru. There are too many foreigners in jail in Peru who have been caught with drugs either in the country or trying to smuggle them out. If you are offered them in a bar or club politely and firmly decline the offer.

Finally use your common sense and gut instincts while traveling. If you have a bad feeling about something act upon it, as it is generally correct. Having said that thousands of people travel through Peru each year without incident, so do not become paranoid to the point of not experiencing some of the wonderful things that Peru has to offer the visitor.

Word of the Day 12/31/09

2009-12-30T15:40:00.000-08:00

This is an ppropriate word for around Christmas time when we have all stuffed ourselves to breaking point -

Barriga - Belly

Word of the Day 12/29/09

2009-12-29T04:48:00.000-08:00

In an attempt to share my wonderful Spanish skills (?) with the rest of you, I will be dropping in a word, phrase, idiom etc of the day.

First off the bat is da da da da - drumrooooollllll.........

Jerga - which means "slang". Pronounced "herga" with a soft r sound.

Stay tuned for more.

Cows On Parade - Lima

2009-12-29T04:16:00.000-08:00

If you see some large fiberglass bovines taking over the public spaces of Lima, then do not be too startled. These highly decorative moo cows are part of the Cow Parade 2009 and are part of one of the world's largest public art displays.

Since beginning in Switzerland in 1998, there have been more than 2500 cows paraded as part of the fundraising campaign worldwide.

You will find cows scattered around Larcomar, Plaza de Armas, Parque de Amor, Parque Kennedy, Barranco and Jockey Plaza with around 80 cows in total comprising the parade. Cows are decorated by locals artists in all manner of weird and wonderful ways. Many of the cows represent Peruvian elements in ingenious ways.

Following the parade the cows will be auctioned off with all proceeds going to Peruvian NGOs Ann Sullivan Center of Peru, Socios en Salud and the Lima Foundation. Let's hope they all go to good home, I'd be udderly disappointed if they were mistreated (sorry, I couldn't resist). The fancy cows will be on display around town until February 2010.

I have included a photo of the one in Larcomar that is my absolute favorite.

A Little Peruvian Slang

2009-12-25T17:58:00.000-08:00

Peruvian Spanish is some of the clearest that you will hear in Latin America. For this reason many travelers choose Peru as the location to learn Spanish. Having said that, there are also bazillions of slang words that are used by locals. Here is a list of some of the slang that you might hear bandied about on the street.

Lucas - A slang word for soles. For example: "Necesito 20 lucas para mi entrada" "I need 20 soles for my ticket."

Cocos - Slang word for dollars. Use as above.

Mostro -Awesome

Chevere - Awesome

Bacan - Awesome

Chamba - Work. For example: "No puedo ir al concierto tengo mucha chamba." "I can't go to the concert I've got a lot of work on."

Chibolo/a - Young person

Jato (HAA-to) - Home

Pata - Mate, Pal

Pituco - Snob

Porfa - Shortened version of por favor please

Porfis - Same as above

So there is a start for you. Memorize and use these and you will sound like a native Peruano and have everyone impressed with your grasp of Spanish done Peruvian style.

Stuff Yourself Silly in Peru

2009-12-24T21:43:00.000-08:00

Peru is truly a culinary paradise. From the gigantic lemon meringue pies, to the vast array of exotic and tropical fruits and the national dish of Ceviche, there is much to tempt your taste buds.

Peruvians are very passionate about their cuisine and rightly so: it is considered one of the most diverse cuisines in the world.
And Lima is considered the gastronomical capital of the Americas. The huge variety found in Peruvian cooking comes from three main elements: Peru’s unique geography; the blend of cultures and races in Peru and the mix of ancient elements with new elements.

There is a huge range of foods grown and produced in Peru. Peru is the birth place of the potato and boasts more than 2,000 varieties of this tuber and 2016 varieties of sweet potato.
There are hundreds of local dishes and a visitor will never have time to try all of them, but there are some essential eating experiences that should not be missed:

Aji de Gallina: Is a chicken dish that is made with Peruvian chili and cream. It is a popular home style dish that is full of flavor, but not usually hot spicy. Some variations on the recipe add pecans, which is a very nice touch. It is served with rice.

Arroz con Mariscos: is a Peruvian style Paella. A rice dish mixed with cilantro, shellfish and tomato.

Ceviche: Ceviche is a delicious fish dish which is cooked in the acidity of lime juice. This is the national dish of Peru and I am yet to meet a Peruvian that is not passionate about it. White fish or Shellfish are combined with lime juice, chili, cilantro (coriander), red onion and salt. Every Peruvian house wife has their own special way of making this dish. It is often served with corn or yucca. If you only try one Peruvian dish, this should be it. It is absolutely delicious.
Causa: Causa is one of the most popular dishes along the Peruvian coast. The history of the dish goes back to the early 1900s when Peru was at war. Mothers and wives prepared the dish which contained all the essential nutrients to keep their boys at the front well fed. The dish is made with mashed yellow potatoes that form the base and top. In the middle is either tuna or chicken in a mayonnaise sauce. On top it is garnished with boiled egg and avocado. It sounds like a strange mix, but trust me, it works.

Sudado de Mariscos: Sudado is another seafood dish that is absolutely to die for. It is a steamed fish stew that is bathed in chili, coriander, tomatoes and onions.

Papa Rellena: Papa Rellena is a mashed potato dumpling usually filled with mince, egg and olive and then fried. They can often be found sold on the street for about one sol. They are served with mayonnaise, chili sauce and red onion soaked in lime juice.

Palta Rellena: Is a hollowed out avocado filled with a stuffing of chicken and vegetables mixed with mayonnaise.

Papa Huancaina: Is steamed potato covered in a yellow creamy sauce with a touch of chili.
Parihuela: Is a seafood stew similar to Sudado.

Alfajores: A delicate short bread type biscuit filled with a type of caramel. They melt in your mouth and are absolute bliss to eat.

Arroz con Leche: Is basically rice pudding made with cloves and cinnamon.

Mazamora Morada: This is a purple corn jelly-like dessert. It is served with stewed apple, pineapple or raisins. It is a more-ish dessert that is reasonably low in sugar.

Inka Kola: All Peruvians grow up swilling this soda drink. It is as ubiquitous as it is sweet. The drink is a national institution having been made since 1910, originally by an English immigrant family. The drink is made with lemon verbena, which along with some coloring gives it its distinctive yellow color. It tastes pretty much like creaming soda, but don’t tell Peruvians that to them it is “El Sabor del Peru” the flavor of Peru.

Pisco Sour: Is Peru’s national drink. There is some debate about whether it was invented in Chile or Peru. In Peru the story goes that it was invented by American expatriate Victor V. "Gringo" Morris at The Morris Bar in Lima. The cocktail quickly became popular with locals and soon many of the grand Lima hotels of the time such as The Maury and The Hotel Bolivar began serving pisco sours to their international guests. The drink is made with pisco, a type of brandy; lime, bitters and egg white.

Chicha Morada: Is a purple corn drink that is made with pineapple and cinnamon. It is served chilled and is very refreshing. You can buy it in powdered form in the supermarket so that you can enjoy it when you are back at home in your own country.

Top 10 Things to Do While In Peru in No Particular Order

2009-12-24T19:12:00.000-08:00

Peru is a truly amazing country bursting with cultural sites and experiences. Everybody knows about Machu Picchu, but there is much more to this country than just MP. From amazing food, music and dance to archaeological remains: Peru has it all.

1. Drink copious Maracuya Sours - Made from passionfruit, this alcoholic beverage is heaven in a glass.

2. Visit Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan, Chiclayo - One of the best museums in Latin America without doubt. At this modern and well designed museum you get to know all about the Moche people of northern Peru and see some of the richest artefacts that have been uncovered in Peru.

3. Eat Ceviche - The best place to try ceviche is in the north of Peru. Good ceviche is a circus for your taste buds being spicy and refreshing in a single mouthful. Ceviche is made from fish marinated in lemon, coriander and chilli - yum!

4. Ollantaytambo - Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley outside of Cuzco. Here are some of the most impressive examples of fine Inca stonework that you will find.

5. Go to Manu - Get to know the Peruvian jungle with a visit to Manu. Incredible! This is one of the world's most biodiverse spots with thousands of animal and plant species right outside your cabin.

6. Trekking around Huaraz - Get your fill of impressive mountain scenery trekking Callejon de Huaylas and see snowcapped mountains including Peru's largest peak Huascaran (6768m).

7. Learn the Cajon - This Peruvian instrument is used in different types of Musica Criolla. The cajon is a type of drum that was created by Afro-Peruvian slaves. The drum is a box with a hole in the back and the player sits on top of it and slaps the front with their hands. The cajon looks and sounds very cool - you can find cajon classes in Lima.

8. Las Brisas del Titicaca Show - This folkloric group is famed throughout Peru for its fabulous displays of Peruvian dance. The group have a lunch and dinner show on in Lima permanently. Even if dance is not really your thing, the show is a must to appreciate the richness of Peruvian culture.

9. Huancabamba Curanderos - Huancabamba is famous within Peru for its curanderos or shamans. The area in the north of Peru is also close to sacred lakes "Las Huarinjas", which are revered for their mystical powers. Huancabamba is known as the cradle of shamanism in Peru and if you are interested in spirituality, then this place is a must.

10. Surfing Chicama - This will only appeal to a select group of travelers to Peru, but if you are into surfing, then this is a must. Peruvian surf is good. You encounter great waves and uncrowded surf spots all up and down the Peruvian coast. But Chicama is the king of all Peruvian surf locations and boasts the world's longest wave. Best waves here are usually around Easter time.

Quieres Hablar Castellano? - Spanish Language Schools Lima

2009-12-24T17:15:00.001-08:00

There must be thousands of places that teach Spanish to tourists in Lima and Cuzco. Before choosing a language school, think carefully about what it is that you hope to gain from the experience. If you are visiting for a week and are mostly interested in picking up basic greetings and how to order a Ceviche, a school that also offers cultural experiences may be the one to go for. If you are keen on sharpening your grammar ability before taking the DELE Spanish proficiency test, you will not be content with a few “holas” and learning how to whip up a good Lomo Saltado. Know what you want and what you are being promised by the school before parting with any cash, there are enough schools floating around the city that you will be able to find one to meet your individual language needs.

Anyone considering coming on a trip to Peru will benefit hugely from studying some Spanish before you arrive. You will get so much more from your travel experience if you know the basics and Spanish is really not too difficult for English speakers to get a grasp of quickly.
AC Spanish Classes
Spanish classes with small class sizes (maximum of six students), one on one classes are possible too. The school is located in Miraflores. With a staff of five teachers, the school prides itself on offering individual attention. The school has worked with embassies and has more than 20 years of teaching experience.
Ernesto Diez Canseco #497
Miraflores, Lima - Perú,
South America.
www.acspanishclasses.com
Caminante School
Caminante offers a program where you live and study with your teacher. Its immersion program is said to be the first of its kind in Peru. Students can choose the start dates that suit them and tailor a language program to their needs.
www.caminanteschool.org
El Sol
El Sol offers private language classes and small group Spanish classes. The school has been approved by the Peruvian Ministry of Education. The school is located in Miraflores and offers a cultural program to complement the language classes. The school can also arrange home stays.
www.elsol.idiomasperu.com
EEC – Escuela de Espanol y Cultura Latinoamericana
EEC has a maximum class size of six students for general Spanish programs and three students for professional Spanish programs. The school also offers Spanish proficiency exam preparation classes. It is located in San Isidro, Lima.
Calle Mariano de los Santos 120 San Isidro, Lima – Peru
www.eec-spanishschool.com
Hispana Spanish Language School
This school has two locations: one in Miraflores and the other in La Molina. The schools offer several different courses including: general Spanish, grammar review, conversation and oral skills, business Spanish, medical Spanish, DELE preparation, Spanish for children and teenagers and more. Class sizes are small and courses begin every Monday. Classes are prepared according to the study program of the Cervantes Institute in Spain.
Calle San Martín 377, Miraflores.
Lima 18 – Perú
www.hispanaidiomas.com
Via Spanish
Via Spanish has Spanish immersion classes beginning each Monday: classes are offered individually or in groups. The school was founded in 2007 and regularly teaches embassy staff members and employees of international organizations. The school can arrange home stays or private accommodation for students.
www.viaspanish.com/blog

Lima: Early Days

2009-12-24T17:05:00.001-08:00

It all officially started when Lima was founded on January 18, 1535 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro. In the valley close to the River Rimac began one of the America’s most important cities and the seat of the Spanish viceroyalty.
In 1532 Pizarro had defeated the Inca ruler Atahualpa. Since good old King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella had granted him permission to become the governor of any of the lands he conquered, he was understandably searching for the perfect location to begin ruling Peru all powerfully.
His first choice for a capital was Juaja in the middle of the Andes. After sitting down and having a really good think about it, he realized that the altitude and inland location made it a pretty inconvenient choice for a seafaring people such as the Spanish of the Age of Discovery.
Spanish scouts were thereafter sent out and came back reporting that they had found a location on the Pacific Ocean that ticked all the boxes. Pizarro set off for the proposed capital and having approved the area founded the city on the aforementioned date as the Ciudad de Los Reyes or the City of Kings.
Before Pizarro arrived the valley was inhabited by several Amerindian groups and evidence of their archeological evidence of their existence remains scattered throughout the city to this day. In the 15th century the Inca had conquered the valley and constructed public buildings.
Pizarro had not seen the last of the Inca, who took exception to being “conquered” and the troops of Manco Inca launched an attack on the new capital of the Spanish Americas in August 1536. There was heavy combat in the streets of the capital and eventually Pizarro and his conquistadors beat the Incas with their superior artillery. The Spanish Crown confirmed the foundation of the city on December 17, 1537 and King Charles V issued a coat of arms to the city.
Lima became an important religious center when the Roman Catholic Diocese was established in 1541 and the city officially became the capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru in 1543.

Plaza de Armas and Palacio de Gobierno

2009-12-24T14:26:00.000-08:00

The Plaza de Armas is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Lima’s city center. Many historical sites are on the plaza and it is a wonderful place to wander around and soak up the historic atmosphere of the city.
The plaza is the site where the conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded the City of Kings in 1535. Around the plaza are the Palacio de Gobierno, the Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, the Municipalidad and the Club Union. In the center of the plaza is a fountain dating from 1650.

The Palacio de Gobierno is the seat of Peruvian national government and the personal residence of the Peruvian president. It stands on the site of an ancient indigenous palace of Tauri Chusko and where formerly Francisco Pizarro’s mansion stood. It is also the site where Pizarro was assassinated in 1541. It is said that Pizarro was killed by having his jugular severed by an assassin’s rapier. He is reported to have fallen to the ground drawn a cross with blood and kissed it. The building that stands on the site today was completed in 1938. Each day outside the gates visitors can see the changing of the guard ceremony.
The Palacio de Gobierno dates from 1937. There is a changing of the guard ceremony at noon each day. There are fee tours of the palace in English and Spanish Monday to Friday, but tours must be booked two days in advance at the Oficina de Turismo at 201 (ask one of the palace guards for directions).

Lima Overview

2009-12-24T14:04:00.000-08:00

Almost every traveler to Peru finds themselves in Lima at some point on their journey. Lima is the epicenter of Peru and there are many different points of interest based in the city of kings for travelers.

Lima tends to be a love it or hate it place. Certainly, it has lots of icky bits such as pollution, dirt, grime, crazy traffic issues and a lack of green spaces. But scratch the surface and there are many fascinating things to do, see and experience. Judging Lima by your first impression is an error, as what you see is not what you get.

If you are prepared to get out of touristy Miraflores and see the real Lima, then you will uncover some of Lima's secrets and get to know a city that pulses with energy whilst framed by some of the continent's most beautiful architecture.

Just some of the sites that tourists to Lima should find time for in their itineraries are: the UNESCO World Heritage Site listed city center, Barranco, Palacio Torre Tagle, El Parque de Amor, Museo de la Nacion, PLaza de Armas, Barrio Chino and many others.